Triple Berry Curd at the 18 Reason’s Jam it Salon

by Irvin on August 30, 2010 · 19 comments

Triple Berry Curd by Irvin Lin of Eat the Love. www.eatthelove.com

I’m inherently a lazy person. Or that’s what I constantly tell myself, as I run around from food event to food event, baking 20 pies, or making cakes, running off to a dinner party, or going to get ice cream with drag queens, after baking three different types of petit fours because I wasn’t happy with the first two. But when it comes to make my own jams preserves, or say a Triple Berry Curd that I am making for the Jam It Salon hosted by 18 Reasons and Karen Solomon, I’m pretty content with making them on the fly, for consumption, and not for canning. Basically because I’m too lazy to sterilize and can the preserves, which is sad, as I’ve been told that it’s not that hard. The idea of eating my own homemade preserves in the wintertime is very Little House on the Prairie appealing, but oh to have to boil all those cans in water.

*sigh*

Now I realize that a REALLY lazy person would just buy a can of Smuckers and be done with it, but the reality is homemade preserves, jams, jellies and the like are pretty darn easy to make and WAY more tasty than the grocery store stuff (the grocery store versions, way too sweet for my palate). It’s the canning that’s kind of a pain in the butt, in my eyes. Of course, I’ve never done it. So maybe it’s would be an easy thing to do. In fact, I recently ran out and bought a dozen jars in a fit of ambition, thinking to myself, “Hey! You own three books (yes three book, true story) on making jams and preserves. Maybe you should actually can some of that awesome summer fruit!” Said jars are currently up above my fridge still shrinkwrapped, untouched. Ahem.

Now Sean over at Hedonia and Punk Domestics would totally disagree. He thinks canning is crazy easy and has even offered to show me the ways of the can. But when I recently went to 18 Reason’s Jam It Salon (I kept on referring to it as the Jam Session to all my non-food friends and they kept on asking if there was going to be hacky sack, patchouli and a drum circle there, so I finally corrected myself) I found myself talking to Karen Solomon, author of Jam it, Pickle it, Cure it (a book that I picked up at the local San Francisco Costco of all places. You know you’ve arrived if you’re book is being sold at Costco!).

I had brought a jar of Triple Berry Curd with me. Karen swooned over the unctuous mouthfeel and bright creamy flavor and amazing magenta color. She leaned over after she tasted it asked me how you would can it. I replied back that you wouldn’t. Though the British have been canning curd forever, the current wisdom is that you really shouldn’t because it has dairy and egg in it. Bad things can grow in it, no matter how you sterilize it. So everyone (well everyone I can find on the internet) tells you to not can it, and instead just make small batches and enjoy it. Some even suggest freezing it. I haven’t experimented with that yet. My freezer is too full of stock and ice cream for me to fit yet another item into it.

Then I leaned over conspiratorially and said “Well, and I’m just too lazy to actually can my jams and preserves.” I expect a gasp of shock or an exclamation of how it’s NOT. DIFFICULT. AT. ALL. ANYONE could do it! What I did not expect was an automatic reply back of “Meh. Don’t bother. Just make the jam and enjoy it.”

WHAT?!?

This is the woman who wrote a book on jams and preserves and who was co-hosting this very event where people brought their own homemade preserves, pickles and sauces! She was telling me not to bother to can either? I love her!

Why do you need 12 jars of the same preserves in the pantry she said to me? You don’t. Just make one and enjoy it! No one needs a pantry full of jams and pickles.

Why hadn’t I thought of it in those terms? Such a common sense approach to preserves and jams! I’m falling in love with preserve making even more so.

The rest of the Jam It Salon was pretty awesome. I got to sample some pretty nifty food crafted items. Like pickled green walnuts. They taste like soft, briny olives, but with a starchy texture like a cooked peanut. There were a couple of raspberry items there including a tart/sweet raspberry nectarine sauce by Emily at Foodzie. Foodzie, by the way, is an awesome website, dubbed the “etsy for the food craft set.” Small artisan food producers selling their wares directly to the consumer. Genius.

Emily told me that she was going to be a judge for the preserves division in the Good Food Awards coming up. If you take a peek at the other judges in that category, you’ll see she’s in excellent company, with Emily Luchetti, James Beard award winning pastry chef for Farallon and Water Bar as one of the judges and Ruth Reichl, former editor of the now sadly defunct Gourmet magazine as another. If you happen to make your own artisan crafted food, you should enter!

Karen, herself had brought some raspberry jam as well as some homemade chocolate and a perky fizzy strawberry black pepper soda that had some attitude. There was a wonderful apricot preserves there and a myriad of pickled items, including pickled carrots, jalepeños en escabeche, pickled beets, pickled grapes and pickled peaches with goat cheese (which created an odd, but not unpleasant sweet-savory flavor).

Someone brought a japanese style kimchi (kimuchi) which I loved. And there were two Georgian sauces (Georgian as in the country, not the U. S. state). Tkemali, which is a cherry plum sauce often used like ketchup in Georgia and makvali, which is a tart blackberry sauce that works well with roast chicken. Both were pretty amazing, and way more savory than I expected them to be, with the fruit base.

The crowd seemed to really enjoy the sauces, pickles and jams. Most everyone who tasted my Triple Berry Curd complimented me on, asking me questions on how to make it and what exactly it was (No, not all curd is lemon curd. Yes, it’s easy to make. No, it does not have cheese in it, as it’s not that type of curd. Yes, you can make it with any type of berry you want). Once I busted out the recipe cards that I had printed out, people seem to light up as well. Why didn’t other people bring recipe cards? I guess they don’t that far ahead.

No one else seemed to have brought a curd either. I was actually trying to figure out whether I should bring the Triple Berry Curd or a Kiwi White Raspberry Lemon Marmalade, and though a couple people had actually tweeted to me telling me I should bring the marmalade, 18 Reasons direct messaged me begging and pleading to me that I bring the Triple Berry Curd (I believe the phrase used was “please oh please!”). As they were hosting the event AND were actually going to be there (as opposed to the people who tweeted from across the country) I figured I should go with that.

The curd, by the way, is pretty awesome on toast, a bagel, or my favorite breakfast starch of the moment, homemade or local artisan English muffins (NOT the dry flavorless cragged English muffins you get at the grocery store. I really detest those). There was some leftover from the event so I was able to use it for breakfast for the rest of the week and then it also saved me when I made my petit fours for the Daring Baker’s Challenge and the first couple of attempts at petit fours were disastrously ugly!

In the end, I realize that the term “lazy” is clearly relative. Sure I may not have it in me to can 60 lbs of fruit so AJ and I can survive through the harsh winter months. But this is the modern era. I can just walk down the street and pick up some artisan jam at the local organic grocer. Or better yet, just shoot over a tweet to Sean at Hedonia. He’ll probably have a jar or two in his cupboard that he can spare….

Whilst making the curd, I listened to Rose Melberg’s Homemade Ship. Her simple, plaintive voice seemed a nice counterpoint to the bright cheery colors and flavors that the Triple Berry Curd has.

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{ 19 comments… read them below or add one }

SprinkleBakes August 30, 2010 at 10:03 pm

The color is just beautiful! I bet it is so rich and delish with all those yolks and butter in it…mmm-mm.

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Chocolate Shavings August 31, 2010 at 12:50 am

Berry curd sounds just delicious!

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Allison August 31, 2010 at 5:27 am

I kind of agree with you. I keep saying I'll make apricot jam during the summer that way I can enjoy it the rest of the year (much like my grandma used to do), but I just get lazy. Plus, its hard for me to resist enjoying all those apricots while they are fresh!

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clubdinein August 31, 2010 at 8:10 am

you make jam on a bagel look really good!

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Mr. Jackhonky August 31, 2010 at 2:09 pm

@SprinkleBakes. Thank you! The color was actually surreally bright and saturated! I kept on thinking to myself "No ones going to actually believe it's this color, they'll think I tinkered with it in photoshop or something!" And yes, the curd is super rich. In a good way…

@Chocolate Shavings. Thanks! It is. You should try it sometime!

@Allison. Mmmm. Apricot jam. I will confess, I was not a huge apricot fan until this year. Then I realized it wasn't that I didn't like apricots, it's just that I loved all the other summer fruit more. But then I made a pie with them and I fell in love. I must use them more, before their season is over.

@clubdinein. Why thank you!

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Stevie August 31, 2010 at 9:05 pm

Mr J

That triple berry curd looks amazing. Too bad you didn't can any to enjoy later… ;) Love your blog. You've got so much energy going to all these food contests and themed-parties.

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Martha September 2, 2010 at 1:49 pm

I have a hard time wrapping my head around those ingredients — what effect do the eggs have on the texture, is it just smoother? It sure looks tasty, if a bit shocking in color.

(Also, I'd love to try those Georgian sauces. Yum.)

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Mr. Jackhonky September 2, 2010 at 2:15 pm

@Stevie. Thank you! It is kinda bad that you can't can it. Not that I would, because I'm lazy. I've actually read that people freeze it, but I've never tried. Originally I was talking to Karen and we thought you couldn't do that because of the egg yolks and it being an emulsion. The curd would break. But since you cook it, it's not technically an emulsion. So freezing it might work. I should investigate….

@Martha. The egg yolks thicken the curd, giving it a silkier more substantial feel, and also giving it a richer taste, like a custard or pot de creme. If you've ever had REALLY creamy quality ice cream, it's usually made with egg yolks in it. The way the ice cream coats your tongue is similar to this curd. Heavy cream (used in the ice cream) is rich, but the added egg yolk thickens the texture. It's the same principle here.

And yeah, the Georgian sauces were great. I wish I had some actual savory meat or something to try it with…

And just as an FYI, you can't taste the egg yolk at all. The curd isn't eggy. It's just rich bright and

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Tina September 3, 2010 at 4:06 am

Alright, Irvin, I am believing you on the not egginess of this berry curd. I have 6 eggs in the fridge from our chix and a blackberry bramble that is prolific. (It does seem contradictory to have a dislike of "egginess" and 4 chix but it is what it is.) I'll let you know how it goes.

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Ruth Seeley September 7, 2010 at 1:53 am

Since the peach and ginger jam I make is a microwave jam, I have the same quibble as you re 'canning' – it's too damned hot in August to be boiling water, especially when you've already figured out a way to not heat up the kitchen by using the microwave. However, an alternative I've read about for sterilizing the jars is to bake them (and the lids – although not the rubber rings if you're using the three-part lids). I dunno – I usually just use clean jars – I never get that much jam – I refrigerate it as soon as it cools down – it never lasts very long anyway – and it's never gone mouldy or exploded. So….

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Rick September 7, 2010 at 8:24 pm

I tried (and succeeded) at making this recipe this weekend with one hiccup. The ingredients list calls for 1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp sugar. The first step uses the 2 Tbsp, but I couldn't find where the other 1/2 cup gets added? So…I left it out and it was fine? Should it be in there somewhere?

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Mr. Jackhonky September 8, 2010 at 5:15 am

@Tina. I don't think it turns out eggy at all, but let me know. And if you ever need to get rid of eggs, just send them my way. I'll use them up!

@Ruth Seeley. Peach and Ginger jam sound fantastic! I've heard of the baking the cans thing to sterlize, but then don't you need to put the cans into boiling water to process them AFTER you have put jam in them? It all sounds like a bit of a pain, but maybe one of these days I'll do it…

@Rick. OH MAN. I am SO Sorry. about that mistake. You are suppose to add it to the egg yolk and egg. If you leave it out, the curd isn't as sweet, and probably isn't as thick either. I apologize, and I have fixed the recipe above. Thanks for pointing that out. I hope the curd turned out okay though without the extra sugar…

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tspegar September 9, 2010 at 2:51 pm

i made triple berry curd last year and loved the results! yours looks gorgeous! see what you think of mine :) lovely little site you have!

http://foodfinery.blogspot.com/2010/04/triple-berry-curd.html

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Gloria September 12, 2010 at 8:56 pm

Curds are luscious; fruit puree and custard, what better combo could there be? Am intrigued by your comment 'the Brits have been canning curd for years'! Have we? Do you mean when it is manufactured? Often curds for sale with longer life are made using pasturised eggs. The event sounded like great fun. I've fairly recently got into canning. Once you've got all the gear, and in the UK it costs a lot more for the jars etc, it is easier to can than not.

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Teresa September 13, 2010 at 3:31 am

I love that you were listening to Rose Melberg while you made the curd. You have a great aesthetic, your food sense is amazing and you seem like a genuinely nice person. I'm glad you discovered your blog.

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Teresa September 13, 2010 at 3:31 am

I mean I'm glad *I* discovered your blog – sorry.

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Mr. Jackhonky September 22, 2010 at 5:15 am

@tspegar. Thank you! You recipe is pretty similar to mine! I'll have to try blueberries next time…

@Gloria. Ha! I actually put that comment in because Karen Solomon from the event said it to me. You Brits probably DO use pasteurized eggs. I've always had a hard time finding those. But maybe next time I make the curd, I'll try to track some down. And yes, the event was super fun.

Also, I DID buy some canning equipment, but I just haven't gotten around to using it. Now the summer fruit season is over. *sigh* I'll have to wait until next year I guess.

Unless I get ambitious and can some quinces. I do love quinces.

@Teersa. Thank you! I love Rose Melberg! My friend Renee actually toured with her AGES ago, back when Rose was in the Softies. She says she's a sweetheart, and when I met Rose at a show, I can confirm that sentiment. Basically she's just like you'd expect her to be!

Also. I'm glad you discovered my blog too!

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Beth February 7, 2011 at 3:38 am

This curd is fabulous. I made it with frozen berries (it’s mid-winter) & it worked out great–not runny or thin at all. Just like a traditional curd. I then filled some macarons with it–they were beautiful with that fabulous magenta color and delicious too. Thanks!

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Irvin February 7, 2011 at 4:17 pm

Thank you! I can imagine that it would make a great macaron filling. The vibrant color would be a great compliment to the treat and it’s pretty easy to make, with fresh fruit or with frozen fruit. Thanks for stopping by and making the recipe!

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