Back in 1989, when I was still a sophomore in high school and secretly listening to Debbie Gibson’s Electric Youth (though I told everyone that I was listening to New Order’s Technique) my parents dropped a bombshell on me. We were moving to The Netherlands for a year. My dad’s a science professor and he was taking a sabbatical year to do research in a different city. The last time this happened was a move to Chicago when I was in second grade and couldn’t verbalize my protests other than a temper tantrum or two. But as a sullen teenage, albeit one that listened to bubblegum pop, I was significantly more vocal about my displeasure of the move. However I didn’t have much choice in the matter and went kicking and dragging to the land of windmills, tulips and wooden shoes. Thankfully it worked out in the end and I fell in love with the country, the people (a few I’m still friends to this day), and yes the food, including the crisp spicy cookies called speculaas (sometimes spelled speculoos) that were traditionally served during the holiday season. Here in the U.S. they are often sold under the brand name Biscoff cookies, or as Dutch windmill cookies, but in my heart I’ll always call them speculaas.
In truth, I never really thought about making speculaas cookies for myself, until my friend Caitlin over at Cooking with Caitlin contacted me and said she was teaming up with Kroger for their iPad Holiday Around the World issue of their MyMagazine app. She asked if I wanted to contribute a recipe and I immediately knew I wanted to make speculaas cookies for the app. I’m joined with some other fantastic food bloggers, including Isabel From Family Foodie, Kris from Young Married Chic, Maggy from Three Many Cooks, Aran of Cannelle Vanille, and Coryanne from Kitchen Living with Coryanne who all created recipes inspired from different parts of the world, including Basque country, Africa and Portugal.

Making speculaas is super easy. Similar to American gingersnap cookies, the Dutch spice cookie is traditionally served over the holidays, specifically to celebrate St. Nicholas Eve, which is December 5th, though the cookies are sold year round. With the rise in popularity of Biscoff cookies, Biscoff Cookie Spread and all the various knockoffs (I believe even Trader Joe’s sells a cookie spread version) I’m surprised that I don’t see people baking speculaas cookies more; maybe because it’s so easy to buy the store bought ones.
Either way, I’m pretty thrilled to have an excuse to walk down memory lane by baking these cookies. I haven’t actually made it back to The Netherlands since I lived there over 20 years ago, but it’s nice to know that I can revisit my past by just baking these cookies. And even if you’ve never been to Holland, the minute they started to bake, your whole house will start to smell like Christmas. That alone is worth the effort.
You can download the Kroger MyMagazine app for the iPad for free at the Kroger website, or view the online PDF edition if you don’t own an iPad. Special thanks to Kroger and Caitlin for including me in this edition of the magazine.
And if you happen to live in the San Francisco Bay Area, feel free to stop by 18 Reasons Annual Holiday Cookie Swap on Saturday December 8th, from 2-4pm. I’ll be there, co-hosting with my partner-in-crime Melanie and the 18 Reasons staff. All are welcome, with or without cookies!
Dutch Speculaas Cookies (sometimes spelled Speculoos, otherwise known as Dutch Windmill or Biscoff cookies)
By Irvin Lin
In my formative youth, at the impressionable age of 15, I spent the year abroad in The Netherlands. There I learned that the Dutch did NOT live in windmills, wooden clog shoes are much more comfortable than you would think, and the Dutch ate a lot of cheese. I also learned that the major holiday that they celebrated at the end of the year was St. Nicholas Eve, December 5th and not Christmas. The Dutch Sinterklaas (and the basis of the North American Santa Claus) gave out holiday treats ranging from chocolate letters, to marzipan figures to one of my favorite cookies speculaas. Thin, spicy, crunchy shortcrust cookies, these treats are the Dutch equivalent to the American gingersnap. With a mix of spices, heavy on the cinnamon, speculaas have as much snap as their American counterpart, but with an added layer of multiple spices like nutmeg, cloves, ginger and cardamom.
Traditionally speculaas are made by pressing the dough into a mold before baking in the oven. Using a springerle rolling pin (a rolling pin with a pattern carved into it) is an easy way to impress a shape into the cookies. If you don’t have a speculaas mold or a springerle rolling pin (both of which can be found online or at a specialty baking shop), you can just use regular holiday cookie cutters to make festive shaped cookies instead or just roll them out, and cut them into squares with a sharp knife. They’ll still taste great and make your house smell like the holidays.
Ingredients
1/2 cup (1 stick or 113 g) cold unsalted butter
1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons (75 g) white granulated sugar
3/4 cup (165 g) packed dark brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
3/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 large egg
1 3/4 cup (235 g) all purpose flour
Special equipment
Baking sheet
Parchment paper or silpat
Stand mixer
Rolling pin
Springerle rolling pin, speculaas mold, cookie cutters or sharp knife
Instructions
1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper of a silpat.
2. Cut the butter into 1/2 inch cubes. Place in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Add the sugars, baking soda, salt, and spices. Cream butter and dry ingredients together on medium speed for 30 seconds or until the batter is uniform in color. Scrape down the sides with a large spatula and add the vanilla extract and egg and beat on medium speed until incorporated (about 30 more seconds). Scrape down the sides again and add the flour. Beat on medium speed until incorporated (about 30 more seconds)
3. Split the cookie dough in half. If you using the springerle rolling pin, roll the dough out until 1/2 inch thick with a plain rolling pin. Liberally dust the springerle pin with flour then roll over the dough, pressing firmly to make a 1/4 inch thick cookie dough, with imprint. Cut the dough along the springerle grid lines with a sharp knife or pizza cutter and place on the baking sheet. If using a traditional speculaas cookie mold, roll the dough until 1/2 thick with a plain rolling pin. Lightly spray the mold with cooking oil, then liberally dust with all purpose flour (knocking out any loose flour once you’ve dusted it). Press the dough into the mold, remove excess dough of the back of the mold and then carefully unmold it onto the baking sheet. If using a cookie cutter, roll the dough out until 1/4 inch thick with a plain rolling pin and cut out cookies and place on the baking sheet.
4. Place the baking sheet in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. 10 minutes before the time is up, preheat the oven to 375˚F. Bake the cookies in the oven 9-11 minutes or until the cookies look golden brown on the edges. Let cool on the baking sheet for 10 minutes before moving the cookies to a wire rack to cool to room temperature. The cookies will harden as they cool.
Makes about 60 cookies, depending on the size of you cut them.







































{ 21 comments… read them below or add one }
Double yay! These definitely deserve a post all to themselves. If I really want to up the ante, I make brown butter first, then use that to make the speculoos. Warm toasty holiday cheer in one little package. Cheers!
Fantastic. Make me miss Christmas in Germany. Our house is near the Dutch border so these were always around in early December. Beautiful job.
You found the Biscoff secret?! Count me in!
I fell in love with Biscoff visiting Belgium many years ago. I loved the cookie shops with all the simple, but delightfully different cookies. The package ones just aren’t the same. Making them myself has been on my baking list for years. I admire your making it happen and not just buying them.
I was a freak among my childhood friends for loving Dutch windmill cookies better than their more boring American choices! And I have a special love of nutmeg — which I’ve seen disparaged by a number of people lately — so this recipe is especially welcome this holiday time. Thanks, Irvin.
My favorite kitchen store in Philly, Fantes, has baking supplies from various traditions and cultures. I’d always stop to look at the intricately carved pins and assumed they were for plain shortbread, but never thought to look them up. These sound wonderful! I love adding black pepper to gingerbread; I’m sure it makes the flavor pop here too. Glad you could reconnect with fond memories. Happy Holidays, Irvin!
Oh, I love speculoos!
What a nice rolling pin, must look for something similar.
Back home we are also celebrating St.Nicolas day, on the 6th of December… kids are always getting some little gifts and sweets under the pillow
That’s the awesomest rolling pin I’ve ever seen! How cool. I was right there with you, rocking out to Electric Youth sophomore year in ’89. I think I still might even have that cologne in a box somewhere too, lol.
How lovely the memories must be – the right smells – especially these cookies – will do it. I hope you were rocking it out to Debbie Gibson and her hat!
Oh my! I love this recipe… and I especially love the Springerle rolling pin.. where could I find one of those?
Probably the easiest place to get a Springerle rolling pin is online at Amazon or if you want to find something less mass market, there are a number of antique and vintage ones for sale on EBay.
How long will these keep?
Ooohhh… Good question. I’m not sure but my guess is about a week in an air tight container or ziplock bag. They harden and crisp up so moisture is their enemy, so if your home is humid or damp, the lifespan will shorten.
That said, I’ve also kept them in my freezer for up to two months and they defrost just fine without anyone noticing at all.
What a wonderful story, Irvin! I am savoring the cloves wafting through the post…
On behalf of the whole Cooking with Caitlin crew, THANK YOU for your extra special contribution to the app, and also for the generous nods throughout. We are deeelighted to be tangled up with you (and your speculaas).
Kelly
Very interesting!! Last night I was reading the ingredients on the back of my “Cookie Butter” jar from Trader Joe’s. The first thing listed is “speculoos”. Then I noticed the word on the front of the jar. I was going to google the word today! That is a bizarre coincidence! I’m so glad you posted this!! Thanks! And I can’t wait to try out the recipe! Thanks again!
On a cold, grey day in London I made these cookies this afternoon and they are truly delicious – a taste of Christmas in a mouthful – and they certainly do make the house smell divine. I’d never seen these rolling pins before but soon found one on Amazon. Thanks for the recipe Irvin, I shall definitely be making more of these in the next fortnight.
Yay! I’m so glad you made them Jane. Happy holidays!
Thank you for sharing this. I’ve made three batches over the last week and given most of them away to friends and colleagues. I plan to bake even more for Christmas. I work for a Dutch owned corporation and the Dutch executives raved about these cookies. One asked for the recipe and I referred him to your website. Happy Holidays.
Wish I had some of these cookies, love the designs. Where can you find one of those rolling pin?
I bought my pin at Lehman’s in Ohio, but you can get the one I bought on amazon as well.
That said if you search eBay you can totally find really cool vintage ones as well. Just search with the terms “Springerle Rolling Pin” and you can browse.
I stumbled on this page by accident, live in SF, grew up in Cincy, and love to bake, and love those Bishoff cookies , yahooooo!
You Rock
Much thanks for the recipe
Kim